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27/30 Dior: Runway RollerCoaster

September 27, 2013


Switch of designers oftens means switch of vision for the maison under a change. Some transitions can be more radical than others. From theatrical Galliano, Dior has passed to a minimalist aesthete Raf Simons who ruled Jil Sander back in its best of days. However so far, his Dior take has been quite the rollercoaster. Off with a pretty reserved start for Fall, then followed with an extraordinary fresh take on Cruise and Couture, Raf’s spring show was not in perfect bloom.

Apart from the necklace pieces, which were in direct liaison with the floral decoration, his pieces felt less new and less revelant to the maison’s history. Although some of the duo pastel dresses were a hit, his one too many cuts (on the back, side, front) and prints (stripes, floral, logos) were more of a miss, as they made it hard to follow. Undoubtedly, his couture show was again with no focus but each piece was exceptionally made and conceived, his RTW fell a bit too flat. The new Dior woman is still hard to pinpoint, although clean cuts, a tad of nostalgia and color pops here and there are differently somewhere in her vocabulary. Her full identity still remains to be seen.

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